The myth of the magic number#
Ask five club players what tension they string at. You'll get five answers delivered with absolute certainty. "I always string at 25kg." "My coach says 23." "The pros use 27, so that's what I use."
Now ask them why they chose that number. Silence.
String tension is one of the most overthought and least understood variables in tennis. Most recreational players would benefit more from changing their strings every 8 weeks than from agonising over 1kg of tension difference.
Here's what tension actually does, stripped of the forum mythology.
Higher tension vs lower tension#
| Factor | Higher tension (25-28kg) | Lower tension (20-24kg) |
|---|---|---|
| Control | More predictable placement | Less precision on fast swings |
| Power | Less (strings don't flex as much) | More (trampoline effect) |
| Spin | Depends on string type, not tension | Depends on string type, not tension |
| Comfort | Harsher, more vibration | Softer, arm-friendly |
| Sweet spot feel | Smaller effective area | Larger effective area |
| String durability | Breaks sooner (more stress) | Lasts longer |
The surprise for most people: spin generation is primarily about string texture and pattern, not tension. A textured polyester at 22kg will generate more spin than a smooth synthetic gut at 26kg. The internet forums got this one backwards for years.
Finding your starting point#
If you've never consciously chosen a tension, start here:
Play with that for a month. Then adjust by 1kg in one direction:
- Hitting long consistently? Go up 1kg.
- Feeling harsh, arm bothering you? Go down 1kg.
- Everything feeling fine? Stop adjusting. You found your number.
The string types that actually matter#
Forget the 47 varieties your local shop stocks. There are three categories worth knowing:
Natural gut
The original. Soft, powerful, holds tension well. Expensive (40-60 euros per set) and doesn't last in wet conditions. If money is no object and you don't play in the rain, it's genuinely the best-feeling string.
Polyester (poly)
What most competitive players use. Durable, good spin potential, firm feel. The downside: it goes dead. Poly loses tension and playability faster than any other string. If you're not restringing every 3-6 weeks, you're playing with a dead stringbed and wondering why your shots feel flat.
Multifilament / synthetic gut
The practical choice for 80% of recreational players. Comfortable, decent power, reasonable durability, affordable (8-15 euros per set). Won't give you the spin of a fresh poly, but it won't destroy your arm either.
How often to restring#
The old rule of thumb: restring as many times per year as you play per week. Play three times a week? Restring every four months.
That's conservative. A more honest guide:
| String type | Restring interval |
|---|---|
| Polyester | Every 15-25 hours of play |
| Multifilament | Every 30-50 hours of play |
| Natural gut | Every 40-60 hours of play |
| Synthetic gut | Every 30-40 hours of play |
If you can't remember when you last restrung, it's overdue. Dead strings rob you of control and power in ways you stop noticing because the decline is gradual.
The pre-owned angle#
Here's something worth knowing when buying a pre-owned tennis racket: the strings are almost certainly dead. Budget 15-25 euros for a restring on top of the purchase price. This is not a downside. Fresh strings on a quality secondhand frame will play better than old strings on a new racket.
When you see a racket listed on EpicRackets at a great price, don't judge it by its current stringbed. Judge the frame, the grip, and the condition. Then get it strung to your spec. That 200-euro racket for 90 euros plus a 20-euro restring is still a 90-euro saving.
If you're buying your first racket and wondering where to start beyond strings, our first padel racket guide covers the decision framework (the shape/weight/material logic applies to tennis too, minus the padel-specific bits). And when you're ready to sell your old frame, here's how to price and photograph it so it actually moves.
